What came first, the chicken or the egg? I’m pretty sure it wasn’t
the chicken unless you subscribe to the theory of Spontaneous
Generation where a rock shaped like a chicken eventually turned
into a chicken. I’m pretty sure the original form of chickens
looked more like the egg with a central core like the yolk (or cell
nucleus) surrounded by the albumin or egg white (like
protoplasm) which eventually contained enough dividing cells to
form a rudimentary animal. Okay, enough of this scientific
gobble-di-gook. Though nature’s original intention was the
primary makins’ of another chicken, the uses for the egg goes well
beyond just another cock-a-doodle-doo!
Egg Nutrition
For starters, for you fitness buffs who regularly consume this
protein supplement or that protein supplement, you need not look
further than the humble egg. The egg white is primarily protein
(actually mostly water but the solids are almost pure protein) and
very high quality protein to boot. Depending on which reference is
used, the Biological Value or BV of egg is anywhere from 94 to
100 which is pretty much the standard by which other proteins are
compared. And me thinks an egg white omelet is a lot tastier than
any protein shake. The egg yolk contains about a third of the total
protein found in the egg along with the B-vitamins folic acid,
riboflavin, pyridoxine, cyanocobalamin, choline and biotin as well
as Vitamin A, iron, potassium, calcium and phosphorus. The yolk
also contains fat – roughly 3 to 5 grams per egg though only a
quarter of this amount is saturated fat. It also contains that nasty
compound, CHOLESTEROL. The stuff that arterial plaques are
made from! Stop this column immediately! Can’t be discussing a
food that’s bad for us right?! Well, it’s not that simple. While
cholesterol does contribute to atherosclerosis or hardening of the
arteries, it’s also a necessary compound that produces our sex
hormones (without those hormones, we’d all just be asexual
mushrooms) along with the insulation (myelin) of all of our
nerve cells. And while dietary cholesterol can raise serum
cholesterol, the biggest dietary culprit in raising serum cholesterol
is dietary saturated fat. Plus it’s not like the egg yolk is pure
cholesterol, it’s only about 200-300mg of cholesterol. In reality,
the cholesterol circulating in our blood is only about 20%
dependent on dietary sources. Our livers account for about 80% of
what’s in our blood. That’s why I’m in the camp that believes you
can consume more than the 2 to 3 egg limitation per week that’s
usually recommended by the USDA. I feel you’d be better off
eliminating those traditional breakfast meats and dairy products
which contain their fair share of saturated fat and more likely to
raise your serum cholesterol.
Egg Applications
Since I was mentioning breakfast, let’s start there. With your
standard breakfast including eggs. Poached, sunny side, over easy,
scrambled, boiled or mixed with other players and baked as in the
Italian frittata or the Spanish Tortilla. I personally like my yolks
runny. Doesn’t that increase the risk for salmonella? Technically
yes, though it’s been estimated that salmonella infects only 1 in
10,000 or so eggs. And it seems that the risk may be a little
higher on the eastern side… and Hawaii is as far west as the US goes
(ok, maybe parts of Alaska are further west). And if you do ingest
salmonella, it’s usually self limiting and isn’t a problem unless you’
re in the elderly, infantile or immunocompromised population
(ok, I know I’m approaching elderly). Plus that’s what antibiotics
are for and that is the day job for me. So I personally am willing to
take the salmonella/runny egg yolk chance.
The penchant for runny egg yolks started many moons ago.
Initially it was watching Dad carefully apply a couple of drops of
Tabasco on each sunny side yolk and save the yolk for the last bite.
Eventually it was watching Mr. Abe consume his daily breakfast. I
walked to school with Michael every morning during our
Kapunahala Elementary days and would wait for him seated at their
dining table (I think he purposely took a long time getting ready
just so his Mom would drive us to school). While waiting, his
Ojiichan – Mr. Abe – would have a traditional Japanese breakfast.
It often included a single egg – not fried, boiled or poached. In
fact it was served still in its shell. When Mrs. Abe brought out a
bowl of steaming rice, Mr. Abe would crack the egg over the
steaming rice then quickly mix it along with shoyu and tsukemono
and consume it with the broiled fish, miso soup and other Japanese
delicacies. I’m not sure if he had an egg every morning though it
seemed that way. Or maybe I was so entranced by his tamago
meshi that the memory kept repeating in my brain.
Since those hanabata (childhood) days, I’ve always been a fan of
the runny egg yolk. Whether it was watching Mr. Abe mix it with
steaming gohan, watching Dad save that last bite of the whole
sunny side yolk or simply seeing that yellow orb of goodness
mixed in the perfect Caesar salad dressing or steak tartare, in the
words of Tony Bourdain “I’m a total egg slut”. However I also do
have my favorite egg yolk applications that involve more than the
cursory amount of heat, sometimes scrambled sometimes boiled.
Very early in childhood, my favorite meal was eggs scrambled with
French cut green beans and quartered Vienna sausage. I still
remember Mom trying to dissuade me after asking me to choose
my birthday meal. “Vienna sausage, beans and eggs”. No, it’s your
birthday choose something else. “Ok, eggs, beans and Vienna
sausage”. Though I rarely partake in that childhood staple
anymore, I do occasionally have scrambled eggs. With butter and
green onions. Simple? Yes. Healthy? Not really since margarine
won’t do, only real butter and more than just a pat. But it’s
something about the marriage of eggs, real butter and fresh green
onions that make 1 plus 1 plus 1 equals 15.
I previously shunned boiled eggs – even during those childhood
Easters – feeling it was a waste of a perfectly good yolk. I enjoyed
coloring them but never really enjoyed consuming them… that is
until Chef Keith Endo of Vino added his Sicilian-Style Eggs to the
menu. Boiled eggs in a ragu of red peppers and pepperoncini with
pancetta and capers. Served on toasted bread to sop up the juices, it’
s a perfect marriage of sweet, spicy, salty, crunchy and savory in
one dish. In usual Gochiso Gourmet fashion, I’ve created my own
take on Chef Keith’s Sicilian-Style Eggs:
Sicilian Eggs
12 eggs boiled to medium to hard boiled state
3 large red bell peppers, julienne
1 Poblano pepper, julienne
½ bottle of pepperoncini, julienne
5 medium cloves fresh garlic, sliced
2 tbsp drained and rinsed capers
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp oil from sun dried tomato bottle
2 tbsp liquid from pepperoncini
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp tomato or sun-dried tomato paste
1 heaping tbsp honey
Fresh cracked black pepper to taste
Chopped parsley (optional)
Sauté the sliced garlic in the 3 tbsp of oil until beginning to brown
then add the peppers. Cook until the fresh peppers begin to soften
then add the capers. Cook another 2 to 3 minutes then add the
pepperoncini and liquid, balsamic vinegar, tomato oil and paste
and honey then sprinkle with the black pepper. Cook until the
liquid almost evaporates then take off of the heat.
Toast sliced baguettes – grilling is even better – until it develops a
crisp texture. Place halved boiled eggs on the bread then spoon the
pepper mixture over. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve.
